Carnivals in Greece: The Happiest Time Before Easter Lent
In Greece, four weeks before the beginning of Lent are reserved for Apokries - a period of masquerades, feasts, and folk customs that have deep roots in ancient rituals and Christian tradition. This is a time when the streets come alive with masks, songs, and joy.
Apokries, or Greek Carnival, is one of the most cheerful and picturesque periods of the year.
Origin and Meaning of Apokries Customs
The word Apokries comes from the Greek words “apo” (from) and “kreas” (meat), which literally means “abstinence from meat.” This signifies a transitional period between everyday life and the fasting leading up to Easter.
However, Apokries are not just religious customs. Their roots date back to the Dionysian mysteries (festivities) of ancient Greece, where festivals were held in honor of Dionysus - the god of wine, merriment, and fertility. During these celebrations, people dressed up in masks, celebrated, sang, and indulged in general merrymaking. Over time, these ancient rituals merged with Christian tradition and became what we know today as Apokries.
The Four Weeks of Apokries Period and Their Customs
Apokries lasts a total of four weeks, each with specific meanings and customs:
1. Profon Week (Προφωνή - week of announcement)
This first week of the Apokries period is a symbolic introduction to the carnival celebration. The name comes from the custom of announcing the festival in advance. During this week, a story about the Pharisee and the tax collector is read in churches, highlighting the importance of humility.
2. Meat Week (Κρεατινή - meat week)
This is the last week when consuming meat is allowed before fasting. In this period, lavish feasts are organized, where meat is eaten abundantly. The culmination of this week is on Thursday, known as Tsiknopempti (Τσικνοπέμπτη), which means “Smoky Thursday.” On that day, the streets smell of roasted meat, and families and friends gather around large grills.
3. Dairy Week (Τυρινή - week of dairy products)
In this week, meat is no longer consumed, but dairy products are still allowed. This is preparation for the complete fast. This week also brings the culmination of carnival festivities. Cities like Patra, Xanthi, and Rethimno organize large carnival parades, masquerades, and street parties with lots of music, dance, and traditional performances.
4. Clean Monday (Καθαρά Δευτέρα - Kathara Deftera)
This final phase of the Apokries period marks the end of celebrations and the beginning of fasting. On this day, light fasting food is eaten, such as seafood, olives, halva, and the famous thin bread called lagana. Another traditional custom is flying kites, symbolizing the uplifting of the soul and a new beginning.
Most Famous Carnivals in Greece
Although Apokries is celebrated throughout the country, some cities have become known for their grand and spectacular celebrations:
Carnival in Patras
Patras hosts the largest and most famous carnival in Greece, often compared to those in Italy, especially Venice. Thousands of residents of all ages participate in the preparations and maintenance of these festivities, turning the city into a center of entertainment, music, and dance.
The Patras Carnival includes various events - from traditional masquerades and street theater to children’s festivals and carnival mask-making competitions.
It begins in mid-January with the ceremonial announcement of the festival’s start and reaches its peak on the last weekend before Clean Monday (the beginning of Greek Orthodox Lent).
Two main parades are particularly spectacular - the Night Parade on Saturday, where participants carry torches and dance in the streets, and the Grand Sunday Parade, featuring elaborately decorated allegorical floats with the Carnival King and Queen at the forefront. The festival ends with the ceremonial burning of the Carnival King figure on the shore, accompanied by fireworks and music.
What makes the Patras Carnival special is not just the scale of the events, but also the atmosphere - thousands of people of all generations gather in squares, bars, and streets, creating an unforgettable experience and a unique energy that captivates visitors from all over Greece and the world.
Carnival in Xanthi
The city of Xanthi, located in northeastern Greece, is also known for its carnival that attracts thousands of visitors.
Although the Xanthi Carnival started in 1966 as a city event, over time it has become a true reflection of the multicultural spirit of the city. Today, it is considered the most folkloric urban carnival, combining tradition and a contemporary spirit.
The highlight of the carnival is the People’s Parade, held on the Saturday before Clean Monday. Folk groups from local cultural associations, as well as guests from all over Greece, parade through the picturesque Old Town, singing, dancing, and wearing colorful costumes. The parade culminates in the main square, where all participants and visitors gather to enjoy an all-night Balkan music fest.
On Cheese Sunday, one of the most exciting moments of the carnival is the burning of Tzaros (Τζάρος) - a straw figure symbolizing the end of winter and the arrival of spring. This custom, practiced for centuries, is part of a broader tradition of purification and renewal, and like many other rituals in Greece, has deep roots in pre-Christian customs.
Carnival in Rethimno (Crete)
The carnival in Rethimno, on the island of Crete, has a rich history dating back over a century. Before becoming an organized event in 1914, celebrations were held spontaneously, often as an expression of resistance against occupying authorities. One of the prominent customs is the burning of a doll known as the “Carnival King”. This doll, symbolizing all the negative aspects of society, is placed on a pyre and burned at the end of the festival, representing a cleansing and preparation for the fasting period.
The Rethimno Carnival on Crete is the third largest in Greece, right after those in Patras and Xanthi. Each group of participants has its theme and costumes, and the program includes various events such as parades, dances, and musical performances.
Among the highlights of the Rethimno Carnival is the tradition of “Petegoletsia” - a form of street theater where actors exchange satirical, humorous dialogues from windows in the local dialect, often criticizing political authorities or current social events. This tradition adds a special color and charm to the entire festival, making it a unique experience for all visitors.
Naoussa Festival - Janissaries and Boulas
The Naoussa Festival, known as Janissaries and Boulas (Γενίτσαροι και Μπούλες), is one of the most important and interesting carnival customs in Northern Greece.
The participants, usually unmarried young men, dress in the costumes of the Janissaries (Genitsaroi), while the “Boula” (bride) is also represented by a young man dressed in a local wedding dress. The procession is preceded by small children dressed in fustanella [φουστανέλλες – traditional pleated skirts worn by men]. The Genitsaroi and Boula wear special masks and decorated hats, while the children wear caps.
The carnival is marked by massive processions through the historic town of Naoussa, accompanied by traditional music and dances.
The custom also has a deep symbolic meaning, recalling the Turkish practice of “blood tribute”, when young men from enslaved peoples were recruited into the Janissaries, an army that became known for its cruelty. This aspect, although not directly depicted in the event, is symbolically brought to life through the characters of the genitsari (janissaries).
The event is mainly based on musical joy, dance and the exchange of energy through masks and folk customs. It is played on zurla and drum.
This festival is inscribed on the National Register of Intangible Cultural Heritage of Greece in 2020, confirming its significant place in the preservation of the tradition and culture of this part of the Balkans.
The custom of wearing bells in Greece
The custom of wearing bells, known as klepetusha, takes place during the carnival period in some parts of Greece and has its roots in ancient beliefs. People wear sheepskin, tie dozens of bells to themselves and go out into the streets, making a lot of noise. The symbolism of this custom is that the noise drives away evil spirits and encourages fertility of the land.
One of the noisiest customs in Greece is Koudounatoi, which is practiced in Mesopotamia on Lesbos. During this custom, participants paint their faces black, wear sheepskin and tie bells, making noise through the village to scare away evil spirits and invite fertility.
Similarly, in Serbia there is a custom of klepetusha, where people dressed in special costumes and with bells make noise through the village, believing that this brings luck and fertility.
On the island of Skyros, the famous carnival custom of “Old Men” (Geros) also involves bells. Men dressed in black cloaks, with goat skins and bells around their waists, run through the streets, singing and making noise, while gathered locals and visitors join in the
Apokries in Greece is not just a time of merriment but also a time when tradition, history, and religion come together in a harmonious blend. These customs, originating from ancient and early Christian times, continue to live on and be passed down from generation to generation.
Whether you participate in the carnival procession, enjoy a rich feast, or fly kites on Clean Monday, Apokries is a time for celebration, togetherness, and joy!
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